Morning: Waking up early, as I typically do, I headed out for a morning walk along the boardwalk before meeting back up with Peep for breakfast. After eating, we checked out and again boarded our boat, this time for the ride back to Nyaung Shwe, where we met up with our driver.
Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery: On our ride back to the airport in Heho, we made a stop a couple miles north of Nyaung Shwe to see the Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery. This monastery is unusual due to its oval-shaped windows. Inside, there was the main hall, with a Buddha statue at one end, used for prayers and instruction of young monks. There was also a smaller shrine on one side and several smaller rooms used as monks quarters. From Shwe Yan Pyay, we traveled back through the mountains to the Heho airport for our flight to Yangon.
Yangon: The flight was just over an hour and, upon landing, we met back up with the guide that first greeted us to Myanmar six days earlier. Yangon was founded as Dagon by the Mon in the eleventh century. At its center sat Shwedagon Pagoda. The British first seized the city in the First Anglo-Burmese War, but soon returned it to Burmese administration. They recaptured it in the Second Anglo-Burmese War and began developing it into the commercial and political hub of the country. Many colonial buildings were constructed and can still be seen there today. When the Union of Burma was established in 1948 following WWII, Rangoon, as it was called then, became its capital. Then, in 1989, at the same time the name of the country was changed from Burma to Myanmar, the name of Rangoon was changed to Yangon by the ruling military junta. It ceased being the capital of the country when the rulers moved the government to Naypyidaw in 2006, yet it remains Myanmar's largest city.
White Elephant Pavilion: Although not included on our itinerary, the first stop we made was to view the white elephants on display within the city. White elephants are highly regarded symbols of power and good fortune in Myanmar and throughout south-east Asia. Several wars between the old kingdoms of Burma and Siam have been fought over the ownership of white elephants. Also known as albino elephants, these animals have a light brown or pinkish color, rather than appearing as all white. There were three elephants on display, the first a darker brown in color while the other two were very light. All are still considered to be white elephants.
MK Gems: From the white elephant pavilion we drove to a jewelry shop where we saw artisans grinding and polishing small jade statues. Myanmar is rich in mineral deposits and mining is a vital source of income for the ruling junta, as most of the mines are state-owned. Due to reports of deplorable working conditions in the mines, many jewelers refuse to import gems from Myanmar. Myanmar produces ninety percent of the world's rubies, and also produces sapphires, pearls, peridot and jade.
Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda: The original reclining Buddha image located at Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda, constructed in 1907, was unhoused and therefore exposed to the elements. By 1957, it was so badly damaged by the weather that it was demolished. Finally, in 1973 a completely new, redesigned image was finished on the same spot as the original and housed in a large steel structure to keep it from suffering the same fate as its predecessor. Over six hundred monks live in monasteries surrounding the pagoda.
Bogyoke Aung San Market: After stopping for a quick lunch at the Padonmar Restaurant, we did some window shopping at Bogyoke Aung San Market. Originally built in 1926 and named after a British civil servant, Scott's Market was later renamed by the Burmese after their famous General Aung San. The old British architecture of the market is apparent, inside of which can be found shops selling jewelry, gemstones, art, handicrafts, clothing, medicine, and food.
City Center: A short drive from the market brought us to the city center, the same location we visited the evening we first arrived in Myanmar. Standing from our parking spot, we were able to see City Hall, the Sule Pagoda, Independence Monument, the High Court building, and Immanual Baptist Church. From there, we began a short walking tour of downtown Yangon, seeing the curious mix of old colonial buildings and modern structures as we made our way to the edge of the Yangon River.
Port of Yangon: Just prior to reaching the port we passed the Yangon Port Authority Building. The Yangon Port Authority regulates all traffic and handles all security at the Port of Yangon, which sees ninety percent of the goods imported to and exported from Myanmar. This was the final sight on our short walking tour, so we located our driver and made the trip over to Kandawgyi Lake.
Kandawgyi Lake: Kandawgyi Lake is the smaller of two artificial lakes built during British rule to supply the city with clean water. On its bank lies the Kandawgyi Nature Park, where we strolled along the boardwalk enjoying the quiet retreat nestled in the bustling city. We also had a great view of Karaweik Hall, a concrete structure designed to resemble a Burmese Royal Barge. It houses two reception halls, a converence center, and a buffet restaurant.
Shwedagon Pagoda: The original pagoda standing atop Singuttara Hill in Yangon is believed to have been built in 588 BC, which would make it the oldest pagoda in the world. Since that time, it is known to have been rebuilt on several occassions, and archeologists can only date it back to sometime between the sixth and tenth centuries. Enshrined in the pagoda are relics from the past four Buddhas, helping make Shwedagon the most popular place of pilgrimage in Myanmar. According to our guide, the entire pagoda is clad in three tons of gold, which is replaced on a yearly basis. As with other major pagodas, Shwedagon is topped with a crown, or umbrella, known as a hti. The hti on this pagoda is particularly ornate, encrusted with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. At the very apex of the pagoda sits a single 76 karat diamond.
After our visit to Shwedagon Pagoda, we took a short walk through Chinatown, where we observed many vendors crowding the sidewalks selling mostly food. Finally, we returned to the hotel, where we again ate dinner, ending our final full day in Myanmar.
Inya Lake: Inya Lake is the larger of the two artifial lakes in Yangon. It is a popular recreation spot for locals and on its shores are some of the most exclusive properties in the entire country. Perhaps most notable is the residence of Aung San Suu Kyi, the pro-democracy activist whose election in 1990 was invalidated by the ruling military junta. Although we did not stop to see the house as part of our tour, we were able to view it from our room at the hotel.